Star Wars III and Monte Alban

Yesterday, Monday was still a day of rest for Amelia and I so we grabbed a taxi to take us to Playa de Valle, the shopping mall. We weren't looking for the Gap, but a place to buy some lunch meet that wasn't cut-up in the street. What was found was a large supermarket not unlike Walmart, but better. We also found Cineopolis, a humongous movie theater. So we decided to see Star Wars III.
The price for an adult ticket was $4.20US. The price for a large box of popcorn, two large sodas, and a new Batman Begins Baseball hat was $9.00US. Yes!!!!
When we walked into the actual theater, both of our mouths dropped open. This one theater was the biggest I have ever seen. It had at least 30 rows of stadium style seating with at least 30 seats in a row. Plus the screen was almost IMAX size. I mean BIG. Actually, big does not quite work. HUGE!!!!!!
Then the previews started. First the Fantastic Four, then Batman Begins. The sound rumbled each chair and shook the place. I new this was going to be good.
Without giving away the details, the movie is excellent. George Lucas finally did it right and really brought the movies full circle. Get off of your butt and go see it.

Then today, Tuesday, we headed for Monte Alban at 8am. We wanted to beat the crowds. We did but just barely. Lots of people until about 12 noon, then nobody but men walking around trying to sell you their pottery and sculptures. One after the other. "No gracias" was heard all day.
Monte Alban is the largest ruins in the region and is only about 6 kilometers from Oaxaca City. It is absolutely stunning. Unfortunately, I was not allowed to use my tripod at all. I did not have a 'permit' for it as they see it as a tool a professional uses to sell expensive pictures. So, I will be buying a $100US permit so that I can use my tripod and Hasselblad at several sites to make expensive photographs :) . Plus I have 208 rolls of medium format film that are just sitting right now.
Anyway, the place is simply stunning. We spent 7 hours there, mostly walking around and not believing our eyes. It is really hard to explain. Do a search for Monte Alban. Amazing.

Tonight, in a few minutes, we are heading to the downtown area to have Pizza and a few cervazas. Yummy.

Domingo...a day of rest...sort of.

Sunday is still a holy day in some parts of the world and is definitely here a day of rest. Most shops are closed and near the zocalo, the beggars came out in force. This also meant no internet.

But let's catch.

On Saturday night, we had dinner on the zocalo and we were very happy to see the striking teachers packing up and heading home. You can actually walk standing upright now in the 2 block radius of the zocalo. The store owners are happy now as are two American tourists. :)

After dinner we walked home where I was pleasantly surprised to find HOT water coming from the shower. Oh, how the simple things in life make me happy.

About 4am Sunday morning, a huge rain storm came in with bright flashes of lightning and booming thunder. It lasted about an hour or so and was glorious. I was awake for all of it as was Amelia. We actually got up and went out to the front door to see what was going on. It was coming down in sheets and spouts off of the roof were flowing completely.

After the storm and awaking around 9am or so, I discovered that my legs, from the knees down, we horribly bitten by noseeums. At least 20 bites that are glowing red. I purchased some repellant in the local farmacia but the bites continued. So today I have repellant and pants on.

Last night we had a couple cervazas with our very nice neighbors. One is a PhD who is a skeletal expert here working on a dig. The other two (AnnaMae and Pepe) are Master Degree students who work for the doctor. They are all from San Diego and are great people. They have invited us out to the dig where they are working. It is called the Exconvento de Cuilapan. I have seen a photo and it is amazing but even better , we are going with them on Wednesday morning so I can photograph there.

But today, we are going to meet up with my friend Krista Elrick who is teaching a photo class here and we are going to walk a bit. Then tonight Amelia and I are going to see Star Wars III complete with spanish subtitles. This should be fun.

Saturday and it's hot

Let's start with last night.

We went back towards the zocalo to have some dinner and to walk around some more. As I wrote yesterday, the striking teachers have blocked off about 2-3 blocks in all directions around the plaza. So we ended up staying away from that but we found a neat little place 3 stories above the road that serves crepes. Delicious. And lucky for us that we were so high because there was another demonstration march that included several hundred people and some of them had large effogies of happy men. From so high up, we had a great view. Then the sun set giving us a lovely orange-tinted shot of the west side of the city.

After dinner we walked a bit and came to an art opening at the Museo de Oaxaca de Contempario Artes (Museum of Contemporary Arts). It was an odd show of pin-up photographs that have been covered in tattoos and graffitti. The other artist was showing his work that consisted of various items painted half in green and half in pink. Everything he found he painted. Knives, golf clubs, spoons, books, etc. The space itself is beautiful and enormous. Lots of young Mexicans and foreigners enjoying the space and the work.

Then a couple lattes, then we headed home.

Today, Amelia and I found the large Mercado southwest of town. It was a chaotic scene of people, cars, and livestock. Everything was for sale. Tires, clothing, food, pigs and goats. It was hot and smelled rather badly. We did not spend much time there but I do not regret going. It is something all visitors should see.

We have also been on a quest for bath towels. They are not supplied in the apartment so Amelia and I have been searching for them. We found some this morning. Can't wait to shower tonight.

Our neighbors are anthropologists from San Diego who are here working on a dig. Great bunch of people.

Let's talk food.
Every meal has been delicious. I have no complaints. Zero. And even better is the price. Lunch today was about $12 US. Including tips. Today we had mole (pronounced mo-lay). This is a sauce that is made here of herbs and spices and CHOCOLATE. Ever had chocolate on chicken? It is damn good. Yummy. I have even found a pizza place that comes highly recommended in all of the guide books. Haven't been there yet but I still have 28 days.

All in all, so far so good. The people are amazing. The food terrific. The cold showers even better (did I mention the lack of hot water?).

Tomorrow is Sunday, a day of rest and we are expecting to sleep in a bit. But being so close to a church I am expecting a bit of noise. So be it. It adds to the beauty that is Oaxaca and to my/our experience.

Adios for now....kisses to everyone.

well, we made it...

Wow, what a place!

We arrived last night about 11pm or so. Both flights here were just fine. We took a very small plane from Houston to here. Just fine though.

The Casa Arnel is a very interesting place. The people are amazingly nice and the hotel is fascinating. The rooms are built around a courtyard of big leafy plants and many, many loud and whistling parrots. Plus, there are a ton of gringos staying here. It is nice and it's cheap.

But our apartment is across the street. It is tiny and sparce. Nothing but bed linens are supplied. We had to buy toilet paper and bath towels. It has a small fridge, a kitchen sink, and a two burner gas stove. It'll do considering it cost $400 for the month.

The neighborhood is old and is somewhat centered around a church that was built in 1872. Our apartment is right next to it. Last night was a celebration for their patron saint (not sure which one). So there was lots of singing and then the fireworks began. The loudest booms I've ever heard. So loud, our apartment shook. Then the congregation came out of the church with several members playing brass instruments and everyone else singing. They marched the street outside and went all around the neighborhood. It was a truly wonderful welcoming.

Amelia and I slept like never before. Even though I only got 6 hours of sleep, I felt truly rested.

Today we walked to the Zocalo only to find it completely ripped up. It is a mess. To add to it, the teachers of Oaxaca State are on strike and have created tent villages in the surrounding streets. Thousands of people sitting and laying under tarps. An incredible sight to see.

The weather today was overcast and it poured for about 60 minutes. When it rains, it gets cold. Then the rain stops and it gets hot again.

I love this place. I am so glad I had the opportunity to do this.

6 hours to go

In about six hours, my plane leaves for Houston where I will catch another plane that will take me to Oaxaca.

I am so excited and nervous that I could barely sleep last night.

I can't wait to be completely immersed in a new culture where everything will be new and exciting and beautiful.



I believe I have everything packed that I will need and I have been very "light" on the clothing. As for the camera gear, I have all that I will need. I am taking my Hasselblad 503CW and my Hasselblad Xpan camera. Did I mention 200 rolls of film?

So I have a few more things to do this morning before my journey begins.

Goodbye for now.

96 hours to go

Well, in just 96 hours I will be on a plane going to Houston, then to Oaxaca. Yes!!!

I've heard that there is a tropical storm going through there right now. This should prove to be interesting.

June is the time of year that Oaxaca gets 6+ inches of rain. At least I'll have some great clouds to photograph.

I am completely prepared. I will be doing a "test-packing" tonight to make sure I can get all of my stuff in one suitcase.

This is going to be a great time. A time to remember. A time to set things up for the future.

9 days to go

Words really cannot express my excitement for this trip.

I am trying to get things down on paper so that I do forget what it is I want to do while in Mexico.

I will be meeting Jorge Gasteazoro, a Mexican photographer who specializes in pl/pd and ultra large format photography. He lives in Queretaro and will be driving down to spend a few days photographing with Amelia and me.

Anyway, it's a beautiful day in Santa Fe. But I still daydream of Oaxaca.

Edward Weston and Mexico

I ordered a copy of the Edward Weston Daybooks a couple of weeks ago and it arrived today.

The first part of the book is entitled "Mexico" and is about his time in Mexico with Tina Modotti.

I read the introduction by Nancy Newhall and I can't wait to read the rest of it. I am saving it for Oaxaca so I can really experience it.

The book is about 1.5 inches thick. Yikes.

Just 16 days left

I can't wait. Just 16 days until I leave.

Most things are lined up.

A little bit of panic. Not much though.

big news...maybe

Without getting over-excited, the work from Oaxaca may get published.

More on this later.